There’s a reason skin care commercials don’t zoom in that close. A real close-up of the skin can be unsettling even if someone’s skin looks perfect, it is a rough and broken terrain crisscrossed with oily gullies and studded with hairs. And in this strange land, there can be dragons. Scientists believe that these Demodex mites are on the face of every adult human! It also hosts various bacterias, fungi and viruses. However, not all of them are harmful, as some play a key role in keeping our skin healthy. For the longest time we thought the skin was sterile just like our gut, but this beautiful micobiome on the skin is a diverse land that has a key roll in keeping our skin healthy. All skincare companies make big promises with their products, but it’s becoming harder and harder to navigate what our skin truly needs.
You might be surprised to learn it all start with keeping the microbiome intact. A healthy skin pH is more on the acidic side, and with more acidity, your skin can combat harmful microbes and damaging free radicals that might increase the aging process. You have probably heard the terms “acid mantle” “pH balanced” or “stripping the skin” but you may not be aware of exactly what it means or just how important an aspect of skincare this is.
As a skin therapist, one of the very first things I do when working with a new client is to get the acid mantle intact. For me, removing preservatives from skincare is the first step. If we think about it logically, a preservative is used to kill bacteria in a product so that no microorganisms can grow. Aside from the fact that many preservatives have nasty side effects that impact more than the acid mantle, our acid mantle is made up of bacteria and microorganisms so the first thing a preservative is going to do is render the skins environment barren of the bacteria it needs to protect us.
Which is why caring for your epidermis staves off ageing compared to skin that has not been cared for as diligently. In this case, wrinkle prevention is better and more effective than wrinkle cure.
Along with removing preservatives, over exfoliating is also a big problem. When you over exfoliate regularly, your skin will seem 'thicker' and not as soft, and it can become dependent on that action so that you feel you need to exfoliate more often. This is because you are constantly forcing cellular turn over at a rate that isn't natural or desirable for your skin. You also leave your skin more vulnerable to the sun and elements.
I often get questions about why we don't have a more abrasive exfoliator in our line. The biggest answer is we don't need one. I personally only use a clay mask or herbal mask once a week. The more healthy the skin the less exfoliation is needed. By nourishing your skin with dense rich botanicals, and getting regular facials which include lymph stimulation and circulatory stimulation, you are decreasing the need to exfoliate so often and so abrasively.
Lastly we want to use a ph balanced cleanser. If the skin is more alkaline, it is often associated with – and may even be a cause of – eczema, irritant contact dermatitis, diaper rash, acne, and fungal, yeast, and bacterial infections. Unfortunately, most soaps have a pH as high as 12 (very alkaline). That’s why you should choose pH-balanced skincare products that fall between 4 and 6. (Our skin is acidic at 5.5) That tight, squeaky-clean feeling you might experience after washing your face is the truest sign of cleansers with a high pH and damaged skin barrier. They, as well as other alkaline skin-care products, tend to strip away sebum and natural oils. As a result, undesirable effects such as redness, inflammation, scaling, and dryness can occur.
So, what to use instead… Use products that are naturally slightly acidic. All plant oils are acidic, Olive oil, the base of my cleanser has a pH of about 4.5-5 – ideal for restoring and maintaining the correct pH. Argan oil, Rosehip oil, Jojoba and Borage oil, all used in my products are the same. Hydrosols (distilled plants) have differing pH’s depending on the plant but they are almost all in the range of 3.5-6 – again exactly what is in harmony with the skin.
When skin is at an optimal pH level, it has improved barrier function, better moisture retention, and less scaling. A slightly acidic skin pH also helps normal (healthy) bacterial flora stay attached to the epidermis.
My main goal is always getting the skin (micobiome) as healthy as possible. That’s why whatever we are facing, acne, dryness, eczema, dermatitis etc. can be better managed. The skin will have less inflammation and a better ability to heal, and if there is such a thing as anti-aging, we will see it with true skin health, and without broken promises from the cosmetic industry. Thus, we see the great divide in skin care approaches today. We either work with the skin to assist or in doing what it does best, or we end up injuring the skin, or replacing it’s normal function, for short-term benefits.
Diet of course also plays an important role in regulating our internal and external pH levels. An interesting paradox exists in that food that is considered acidic before digestion becomes alkaline-forming in the body. Animal products, which are alkaline before digestion, are considered acid-forming in the body.
In general, we need our diets to be less acidic and more alkaline. This means an ideal diet consisting of high alkalizing foods, such as leafy greens, citrus fruits, tomatoes, carrots, green tea and avocado is best at keeping ourselves healthy. The body’s pH is extremely important in maintaining health and it is essential to maintain balance within your body.
I tell clients all the time it’s a multi approach to skin. Topicals alone can not always fix what is showing up, our skin is a mirror. We usually need a team to help find the root cause of whatever issues are showing up. But it’s my job to help with ultimate health of the skin with better lymph movement. If you have a healthy skin microbiome and good superficial Lymph circulation, there’s really no need to exfoliate or do much else. Except for the winter when the air is dry and things become a bit more stagnant. But even then, a good consistent Gua Sha routine, warm compresses to help melt tension, and some clay or raw honey masks, and you should be good to go.
Diana